Murraya Paniculata, commonly known as Orange Jasmine, is native to Southeast Asia, but it’s also well-suited to Australian gardens, particularly in areas with a warm climate. It belongs to the Rutaceae family, the same family as citrus trees, which is why it shares some similarities in scent with citrus fruits.
The plant produces small, fragrant white flowers, which bloom in clusters, making it a popular choice for hedges, borders, and ornamental garden beds. It also attracts beneficial insects, such as honeybees and butterflies, adding life to your garden.
Key Features of Murraya Paniculata:
In addition to its ornamental uses, Murraya plays a role in pest management. The Northern Territory Government’s CitrusWatch Program utilises Murraya to monitor and trap harmful pests, including the Asian citrus psyllid, which poses a significant threat to Australia’s citrus industry.
This dual function of being both a garden plant and a natural pest control method adds another layer of value to this versatile species.

Choosing the RIGHT Murraya for Australia (The Crucial Bit!)
The original Murraya paniculata (sometimes sold as ‘Exotica’) is now classified as an invasive weed in many parts of NSW and Queensland. Its vigorous growth and bird-spread seeds can smother native plants.
Sweet Privacy™ Murraya (Ozbreed):
The superstar for hedges! Grows 1.5-2.5m high x 1.5m wide. Prolific flowering, exceptional density, and only needs light pruning twice a year. Widely adaptable across Australia (QLD, NT, WA, NSW, VIC, SA).
Murraya’ Min-a-Min’:
Perfect for low hedges (around 1m high) or pots. Compact, bright green foliage and fragrant flowers. A great alternative to Box hedging.
Murraya paniculata (Cutting-Grown ONLY):
Ensure plants are grown from cuttings (not seed). These typically produce few or no berries, drastically reducing the risk of weeds. Always check local council regulations first.
Native Mock Orange (Murraya ovatifoliolata):
A slower-growing native option with smaller leaves, suitable for northern Australia.
Murraya Paniculata is also used in citrus rootstock breeding to develop disease-resistant plants, as highlighted in the Queensland Department of Agriculture and Fisheries report.
Best location for Murraya Paniculata
Planting Your Murraya for Success: Location
Soil Preferences:
Adaptable to sandy, loamy, or clay soils (as long as drained!), but thrives in slightly acidic, fertile soil enriched with organic matter
Sunshine Lover:
For the most flowers and densest growth, plant in full sun (at least 6 hours direct sun). They tolerate part shade, but flowering and density will be reduced.
Drainage is NON-Negotiable: Murraya hates wet feet. Well-drained soil is essential. If you have heavy clay:
Dig a much wider hole (2-3 times the rootball width).
Mix in plenty of gypsum and organic matter (like compost or aged manure) to improve structure.
Consider planting in a raised mound or bed.
The Planting Process (Best done in Autumn!):
- Dig: Make the hole twice as wide as the rootball and the same depth.
- Prep: Mix some of the excavated soil with compost or Dynamic Lifter.
- Position: Gently remove the plant from its pot. Place the rootball in the hole so that the top of the rootball is level with the surrounding soil.
- Backfill: Fill around the roots with your soil mix, firming gently.
- Water: Give it a deep, thorough soaking to settle the soil.
- Mulch: Apply a 5-7cm layer of organic mulch (e.g., bark chips, cane mulch) – keep it away from the stem to prevent rot.
- Water Regularly: Keep the soil consistently moist (not soggy) for the first few months while it establishes.
Spacing for Hedges:
- Dwarf Varieties (e.g., Min-a-Min): 50-60cm apart
- Medium Hedges (e.g., Sweet Privacy™): 60-80cm apart
- Tall Screens (if using larger forms): 90cm – 1.5m apart
Caring for Your Orange Jasmine: Water, Feed, Prune
Watering Wisdom
- New Plants: Water deeply 1-2 times per week, depending on weather. Check the soil moisture – it should be moist, like a wrung-out sponge, a few centimetres down.
- Established Plants: Remarkably drought-tolerant. Water deeply only when the top 5cm of soil feels dry. A general rule is about 20mm per week during late spring to early autumn, less in cooler months. Overwatering is a major killer (symptoms mimic underwatering – yellow leaves, drooping)!
Feeding for Fabulousness:
- Apply a balanced, slow-release fertiliser in early spring (e.g., Osmocote, Dynamic Lifter).
- A second application in late summer/early autumn can be beneficial, especially for heavy-flowering varieties.
- Avoid high-nitrogen fertilisers, which promote weak, leafy growth at the expense of flowers.
- Yellow Leaves? It could indicate a nutrient deficiency (often nitrogen or sulfur). Applying sulphate of ammonia can help, or using a complete fertiliser is recommended. Good mulching also prevents deficiencies long-term.
- Pruning Perfection: 1912
- Best Time: Major pruning should be done after flowering finishes in late autumn/early winter. This avoids cutting off next season’s buds and encourages prolific spring blooms. Light shaping can be done year-round.
- Frequency: Most cultivars need light pruning twice a year (e.g., Sweet Privacy™). Fast-growing plants might require a third light tidy-up.
- How to Prune:
- Always use sharp, clean secateurs or hedge trimmers.
- Focus on trimming the top growth to maintain your desired height.
- Avoid cutting back the sides too harshly – this removes flower buds. Aim for a slight taper (wider at the bottom) so sunlight reaches lower branches.
- Remove any dead, diseased, or crossing branches first.
- Hard Pruning: If your Murraya is wildly overgrown, it can handle a hard cut back. Do this in stages (no more than 1/3 of the plant at a time) over a few years if possible, ideally in late winter.
Fertilisation Schedule for Murraya Paniculata
SeasonFertilizer TypeFrequencyPurpose
Early Spring Balanced slow-release (e.g., 10-10-10), Once Kickstarts growth after winter
Late Spring to Summer: Liquid fertiliser (e.g., Yates Thrive)- every 2 weeks. Supports flowering and dense foliage.
Autumn Slow-release or compost Once Prepares plant for winter
Winter None – Avoid promoting frost-sensitive growth
Troubleshooting: Spotting & Solving Problems
- Yellow Leaves:
- Overwatering/Poor Drainage: Most common cause! Check soil moisture. Improve drainage urgently.
- Nutrient Deficiency: (Nitrogen, Sulphur, Iron – often in high pH soil). Apply appropriate fertiliser. Soil test if unsure.
- Pests: Sap-suckers like Aphids or Scale. Check leaf undersides. 1810
- Pests:
- Aphids/Scale/Mealybugs/Whitefly: Cluster on stems and new growth, sucking sap. Treat with horticultural oil (e.g., Eco-Oil, Yates Nature’s Way Vegie & Herb Spray) or insecticidal soap. Encourage ladybirds!
- Spider Mites: Fine webbing, leaf mottling. Hose off regularly or use miticides.
- Borers: Rare but serious (tunnels in stems, bark damage). Prune out affected wood well below the damage.
- Diseases:
- Root Rot/Crown Rot: Caused by waterlogged soil. Fatal if not addressed. Improve drainage, reduce watering, and remove affected parts. Fungicides may help early stages. Prevention (good drainage) is key!
- Leaf Spot/Fungal Issues: Promote good airflow (avoid overcrowding plants), water at the base (avoid wetting foliage), and remove affected leaves. Fungicide spray if severe.
Bonus Tips & Creative Uses
- Pots & Tubs: Dwarf varieties (like ‘Min-a-Min’) thrive in large pots (min 30cm+ wide). Use premium potting mix and ensure excellent drainage. Water and feed more frequently than in-ground plants. Perfect for balconies and courtyards!
- Companion Planting: Pair Murraya with other fragrant or textural stars:
- Flowering: Gardenias, Lavender (French or English), Plumbago, Rosemary
- Foliage: Westringia (Native Rosemary), Lilly Pilly (native alternative), Box (for formal contrast)
- Topiary & Specimens: Their dense growth and response to pruning make some Murrayas excellent candidates for balls, standards, or other shapes.
- Fragrant Zones: Plant near entertaining areas, pathways, or windows to maximise enjoyment of that incredible perfume.
While Murraya is commonly used in gardens, it’s crucial to note that it can be considered an environmental weed in certain regions, particularly in New South Wales. According to the NSW Department of Primary Industries, Murraya Paniculata can spread and outcompete native plant species in some areas, making it important to manage its growth carefully.
Enjoy Your Slice of Fragrant Paradise!
Growing Murraya paniculata (the right way!) is one of the easiest paths to adding beauty, privacy, and sensory delight to your Australian garden. By choosing a non-invasive variety, providing it with sun and drainage, and following simple care instructions for watering, feeding, and pruning, you’ll be rewarded with years of stunning, fragrant performance.
References:
- NSW Department of Primary Industries – Murraya (Murraya paniculata)
- Northern Territory Government – CitrusWatch Program
- Queensland Department of Agriculture and Fisheries – Breeding New Rootstocks